Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Dry Dock, Shinbashi

Getting wet, down at the Dry Dock.

I heard that there was a bar in Shinbashi, Tokyo, where I could have three Asahi Super Dry beers and each one would taste different.
How?
Would each one be worse than the previous?
Not liking this beer very much, I could see how that would be possible, simply through enduring the bloody stuff and also with the knowledge that I am actually paying for each beer as it arrives.
Another friend has a theory that the barman goes out the back and spits in one beer, urinates in the other and serves the other beer normal.
I wouldn't be suprised, that if that was indeed the case, then in a blind test, the unaltered beer would come out bottom.
So, you see, I am prejudiced against Super Dry and other such skimpy beer wannabees. I don't really want corn or rice products in my beer. I am a snob. Of this class of beer wannabees, I regard Kirin Ichibanshibori as the most drinkable.
I have met many, many Japanese men (no, not in that sense) and sometimes women (why do you seem suprised?) who claim to be a 'super dry' or 'Kirin lager' person. I'm sure there are even one or two out there who are ardent 'Magnum Dry' officionados, but I have yet to find one. Until then, they shall secretly keep on getting the wife to buy the stuff by the case from the discount supermarkets and drink it at home, in their underwear, whilst watching the baseball and playing with their nuts.
It's not what I do myself, of course. I don't like Japanese baseball that much.

Anyhoo, I really wanted to give this claim a go, in the name of science, you understand. Testing out the theory, as it were.
However, it simple wasn't to be. Not this time, anyway. I had very little time before my last train home, so I could only have the one drink.

I will go into that soon.
Firstly. let me just throw it this out there:

Have you tried the three super dry challenge?
What did you think?

So, the Dry dock is a small bar set under the train tracks, near Shinbashi Station, in Tokyo.
It's not all that easy to find. The map is pretty good, but the bar itself is a little out of the way. It's in a part of the station that doesn't really see that many people.
Here's the map (I took this from their website and do not claim it as my own):You may want to check out their website.

Opening times
Weekdays: 5pm - 12:30am
Fridays and National Holidays: 5pm - 2am
Saturdays: 5pm - 10pm 

As you come to it, you will see a small, white 2 story building, seemingly standing alone, under the tracks. When you look again, you may notice that the first floor is 'half submerged', adding to the whole 'dry dock' image, perhaps. The solid looking main door is constructed out of wood and has a nautical circular hatch set into it. Very nautical. Although not as nautical as Nautical Nancy, renowned for her insatiable desire to consume seamen. Not to say that there's a ship in every port, but her port's seen more ships than Yokosuka Naval Base. Yes, I just went there - not to Nautical Nancy, but I shamedly just lowered the standards (another nautical pun). If there is a 'Nautical Nancy' out there, I apologise (and my home number is 01234567).

As I descend the steps into the main bar, I can see a small staircase leading up to the right. This leads to an even smaller second floor with seated tables for about half a dozen or so. The main bar area features a long standing bar with space also for around half a dozen. Resisiting the urge to hoist my jolly roger, I checked out the menu:
I noticed that they had a new beer, as yet unreleased by Asahi. The kind and very knowledgable Sato san informed me that this beer was due for release in March. I decided that if I didn't have time for the '3 super dry challenge', then I could at least try a new beer.Asahi Premium: 5.5/10.
It wasn't at all bad, though it didn't exactly rouse the seamen into action. Malty taste. not very bitter. Slightly, slightly sharp. Just a normal Japanese lager, I felt. The big 4 companies have been churning out a lot of 'premium' all malt beers the past year or two. Maybe in an effort to encourage the premium beer (and premium prices) market. The Japanese public don't seem to have swallowed that bait, as it were. It's a bit silly, really, by the beer companies, as it was they who got the public hooked on the cheap booze to begin with. Now they seem suprised that average Joe or Taro doesn't really want to pay all that extra for a beer that doesn't quite taste as astringent and acidic as the stuff that he's grown accustomed to and has begun to love. Not to mention he feels loyal to his brand and has begun to identify himsefl with it. I'm waffling on again, aren't I?

Anyway, this beer isn't bad, but it's nowhere near my favourite. I like a malty tasting beer or a good, heavy bodied porter. Not aversed to a fruity American style pale ale, either.

Right now, I'm relaxing with a nice, big, strong, full bodied black porter.
His name is Alan and he's a scorpio.
I also have a couple of bold and fruity Americans in my home, just waiting to be swallowed. I think we're gonna have a party tonight.

As for the Dry Dock, the atmosphere is very good. Very friendly and I have the feeling that the owner really knows his beer and for some reason, really likes Asahi Super Dry. I can accept that. I want to return to this nice haven for stray ships soon and take the time to truly dock here and take up the '3 super dry challenge'.
The Dry Dock - 6/10
(A friendly and interesting place. Don't forget to try 3 Super Drys
- and don't blame me if they all taste the same)

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Sunday, January 20, 2008

The Aldgate, British pub, Shibuya

The Aldgate, ShibuyaThis place has to be the British pub in Shibuya. In terms of selection of beer offered (various brews from various brewers), atmosphere (compared to the ever scarce old style traditional pubs back home) and the fact that it's on the third floor and has no windows.
Hang on, that last bit wasn't right.

I mean, it was right about the lack of windows. One strange thing about this place but not something you really care too much about, once you 'start your engines' and drink.
To get to the place, you have to walk about 5 minutes from Shibuya Station. Go across the Hachiko and take the pedestrianised side street that carries on up past the left side of Starbucks and the giant Tv screen. Walk about 250m and you'll see a Union Jack flying about 4m up, on your right. Go into that building and go to the 3rd floor.
If you have trouble, you may want to check out this guy's choppy video directions form Shibuya station:

First thing you'll notice is the interesting double door entrance that seems to invoke an alternative state of reality. Rather, it takes you into another dimension, transporting you through time and space to a dark but not smoky British pub:
There is standing room and seated/benched tables for around 50 or possible more.
On the left is the well equipped bar. The kitchen is just before that (Chuck Norris does a pretty good pasty). The bar is the high point for me, as I love good beer. They have 19 beers on draught. Quite impressive. The quality of their beers is also usually very good. I've had my best pint of Rogue Brewer and Echigo ESB in this bar. Prices are around the 1,000yen mark. They usualy have three or four guest beers every week. They range from Japanese craft brews to world beers that are hard to find elsewhere. Keep checking their website for details.

Here's the owner and one of the beautiful (and intelligent) ladies who work there and bring a little sunshine into the dark and gloomy world of men:
2 more shots of the taps:
They also have an impressive colection of music, playable upon request (as long as you request what they are going to play...or not. I tried to get the theme tune to Indiana Jones, but they didn't have it.)

The food is not bad. I think the pasty is best. Though I haven't tried the pork lever putty (?) or the Welsh rabbit yet (those rabbits are pretty fast, back home in Wales): If you do decide to order food, perhaps you should print out this coupon first:
It'll save you 300yen.

As for the beer, the best beer on offer at present is, I feel, the Echigo ESB:
Echigo ESB - 7.5/10
Isn't she beautiful? A little dry, fruity taste reminiscent of american West coast brews but still has enough malts to be a smooth drink. Quite a well balanced pint, I think.

This is one of the guest beers, which means unfortunately that it will be gone in a week or two.
However, I'm confident one if it's replacements will more than suffice to satiate.

Of the house beers, I recommend the Harly Porter. Very nice. Malty, rasted malt flavors and not too dry or strong. A little smooth. Not as creamy as a Guinness. One can find Guinness anywhere, so this beer is the more interesting choice. They don't offer a tasting set (which I think would be a good idea) but if you're really lucky, you may be able to coax a tiny sample out of the manager - ooer.
Just be gentle with the fork.

I liked the Echigo ESB so much that I only drank that, the last two times I went there.
Here's a shot of a Kostrizer (the 'German Guinness'?), gently roasting it's nuts by the fire:
Of the British bars I've been to in Japan, only the Meguro Lion seems to be more authentic in apeearance and ambience to what I love about pubs back home. The nearby Hobgoblin and Dubliners pubs are also 'authentic'(ish) but in a more modern style. Sadly, this style seems to be taking over these days - loud, bright, lager swillers hangouts.
As for The Aldgate, I think myself lucky that the way of the ale can still survive in places like this.

Verdict: The Aldgate - 8/10
(recommended)

Why not pay it a visit? You never know what may happen there.
(she though I was a guitarist of a thrash band that she really fancied)
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p.s. just to prove it's not so easy to find this place, here's a clip of when I walked straight past it (I've done that sooooo many times) whilst drunk (done that many times, too). Caution - contains swearing and one drunken idiot:

Saturday, January 05, 2008

The Great German Cook - Tsurumi Beer Bar

The best jugs in town!Recently (about an hour ago) I was inside the Great German Cook. Perhaps a misleading sentence to start my entry with, I suppose. This Great German Cook is actually a German beer bar/restaurant, in Tsurumi.
The webiste for the GREAT GERMAN COOK.Once you find it, you will find it a very accommodating place.
A really nice, relaxed atmosphere, although slightly smoker friendly. Temperature-wise it's cool at the front but a lot warmer at the back, near the kitchen. Seated tabled benches for around 50 and bar stools for around a dozen at a squeeze. The beer is well popured by a very attractive and skillfull barmaid and served by an equally eyepleasing server (can I say that without sounding like putting the women down in any way? If not, then I apologise).

Here's the map from their website:Here's my Google Earth map:So, I take it you can find this place.

Once you're in, you'll see a few bench tables 'seating around 20 or so and then a semi-circle bar on the left hand side (past the Dutch heap), with stool specimens for around a dozen. (apologies for poor quality keitai shots)
Past that are two or three tables for around another 20 and the glass partitioned kitchen on the right, with toilets on the left.The place has been open for around 10years.
The menu, like the bar is quite impressive:An awesome beer menu featuring at least 11 quality draught beers. Of which I can recommend the Weihenstephaner, Jever and Lowenbrau (if you let it defrost) wholeheartedly. Their house beer, Erdinger, is somewhat unusual in taste. All the 'locals ' were ordering it, however. By far the best weissen on tap was the Weihenstephaner. I regard Erdinger as the 'bud' of weissbiers, seeing as you can find it anywhere and it's totally mass produced and overhyped. I think it doesn't compare to a Schneider or other comparable beers (bit of a strange sentence, there).
They also have a nice selection of bottled beer including a few Belgians.
One point to mention is the interesting offer they have as a beer set (bottom of the menu). The price depends on the particular beer and size you choose and you can have two side orders of food for a minimum charge. Seems like good value. Unfortunately, I rushed my order and missed out on this, as, by the time I noticed it, I'd already ordered the German Potatoes.
Scheisse!!

Still, the beer - how was it?

First up was a Weihenstephaner Weiss bier:Daayam!
Very well poured and tasted just as I'd remembered it. Fantastic.
1,050yen.
7.5/10.

Next up, I ordered another weisse bier, an Erdinger Weissbier:This was a slight dissapointment. Especially as I had been watching all the 'locals' ordering this beer. It seemed to be the house speciality. Pity. The Weihenstephaner was far better.
It was okay, but something was wrong. Tasted like a cross between a wheat beer and a lager. Not quite right. Not bad, though. I often think of this as the 'Bud' of weiss beers. Available almost anywhere and mass produced till the ass falls off.
1,050yen.
5.5/10

Next, I ordered German potatoes:Again, not what I expected. The German potatoes I have previoulsy ordered in Japan have always been some combination of fried mashed potatoes with ham and some other 'stuff'.
These were already fried potateos, refried with some other 'stuff'.
Still, they weren't bad. just the right thing with beer, as they were very oily and salty although the garlic wasn't that evident, despite labelling them as the 'garlic flavoured' version in the extensive menu.
6/10.
(p.s. the menu is good - around 6 pages of choice ranging from Eisbein to pizza ot Japanese curry to... ...stuff.)

Then I had a Jever pilsner:Jever is a dry German pilsner. Dry and hoppy.
This one was no dissapointment.
I had confidence in my order, due to the quality of the beer at this establishment. Other places, even Popeyes included, vary in quality from time to time. I can honestly say that this is the best Jever I have ever had. Full of aroma, flavor, hoppiness and drier than my Grandmothers' crack after a weekends unsheltered sun basking in the Mojabe desert. It was that dry - but in a good way.
But it better bloody well had be, for 980yen for a medium sized glass.
8/10.

After that, I needed some moisture. The ladies were unresponsive and now I'm a horrible sexist pig and oink oink I decided on giving the garlic toast a try.Not bad. but 'toast with just a tiny smidging of garlic' would have been a more accurate label.
It was mostly toast. there was some garlic flavor. Mostly toast, though.
480yen.
4.5/10.

Helping me to process this culinary orgasmic platelet of delights was a steiner of Lowenbrau:One word of advice here is to let it sit a while. Better still, ask for an unchilled steiner beforehand. Once again, Jaspanese style out trumps common sense. This lager needs to be cool but not frozen. To test my theory, order this frozen, take a few sips, then leave it to warm in your cupped hands for a few minutes, then sample it again. I guarantee the flavors and aromas will have matured and developed to a far more satisfactory degree. The beer's flavour will slowly blossom with the warmth, just as the frigid morning's etheral mist rises with the warmth of the life giving sun. Far be it from me to demand that a whole country change it's misgiven style of drinking a product that is as alien to it's ancient culture as the ABC.
Still, once defrosted the Lowenbrau was 5.5/10
Ooh! Who da beeyatch?!!!!

This place is lovely.
If it wasn't so smoker friendly, this place could be one of my favourite bars. Not far from me but also not so easy to get to, unless you have a bike or don't mind walking (although the journey, along the Tsurumi river, is quite nice).
Needless to say I do not recommend driving to this place but in a country where the trains run on time and there are stations everywhere, hopefully that shouldn't need to be an issue. Unfortunately, we don't live in a perfect world and some idiots drink before driving.
Marks up for decor and beer quality and food prices. Marks down for being smoker friendly and location (however it's close to the station but the train lines aren't that convenient).
7/10

Address: 浜市鶴見区鶴見中央4-2-4
Google maps link: HERE中央4-2-
Phone:045-502-3458

(While you're there, why not try the Yokohama Kirin brewery Spring Valley brew pub restaurant? It's a little further down the line at Nama Mugi. They have some beers on tap you can't buy in the shops however, service is hit and miss.)
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Blendmeister Beer Pub

There's a new bar in town. It's lean, mean and has Steve McQueen
(well, perhaps if he was in the area and he wanted a beer).
It's called Blend Meister.
Seems like a weird name for a beer bar that serves up to 30 world premium beers draught and plans on having around 200 beers in bottles. Perhaps the blend is in the styles of beer available?
Of course, as the name suggests, it's Japanese managed.
This is a country where there is no shame in drinking blended coffee (it's even a branded name). Everything is blend this, blend that. Never mind that a blend incorporates several different vaireties and therefore is not 100% pure. This, in a homogonous society is simply intruiging. "Go crazy, try something blended! This way, you can be different! Just like everybody else."
p.s. I'm not knocking the idea of a blend as being inferior, just that often blended coffee means mixing the good stuff up with some nasty crap to make more money.
The very idea of blending beers, well, not a nice thought.
"Unless it's in mah belleh!!!!"

Anyway, back to the BlendMeister.
I heard a rumour about this place and decided to check it out. I've been there twice. Once in December, 2007 and once more in Janurary, 2008.

It has connections with Yokohama Beer. Yokohama Beer beer restaurant, Sol Ponte, is very close by, just 3 or 4 blocks away. Yokohama beer has one of the best weissens in Japan and produces over 6 varieties of pretty good booze. They also have by far the best value all-you-can-drink that I know of. 1800yen for 90 minutes of over 6 craftbrewed quality beers. Awesome. (HERE is a link to one of my old adventures with an old friend in both senses of the word - I meant 'old', not 'friend', as perhaps implying a sexual connection - of which there is none that I am aware of.)

Once more, back to reality and the point of the blog entry.
Perhaps the bar is called 'BLENDMEISTER', as the owner has skillfully managed to blend together some of the best international beers you will find in this country and a few others perhaps you won't (he has connections with a certain importer).

For example, here's one of the beer menus:Not bad, eh?
I was told by the barman a few days ago that they had 30 beers on tap. Impressive.
I meant the selection of beers, not the barman.
They change some beers every now and then. They also change beers from slected brewers (e.g. changing the styles of Hobgoblin beer or perhaps introducing a new variety of British ale or bitter.)
The happy new suprise I recieved upon my second visit was this beauty:
Yesssssssssssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pilsner Urquell. The original pilsner and perhaps the best. I love this baby. so much so that I made an effort of visiting the brewery in Pilsn, Czech Republic, twice and taking the brewery tour and sampling the real thing, from a wooden barrel, un filtered, unpasturised, unchilled and unbloodybelievable!The bar itself is not too difficult to find, as it's in the ground floor of the Heiwa Plaza Hotel.
Here's a map I made using Google Earth:The closest station is Bashamichi, on the Minato Mirai Line. This is an expensive line and a cheaper option would be from Sakuragicho station. a little further but still an easy walk.

Once you get to the Heiwa Plaza Hotel, you will see the bar on the ground floor.
It's a bit of a let down to see the cars parked right outside the bar. You'd think they would have parked them elsewhere (can't do much for business), but then this is a functioning hotel.

Once you go in, you may find the place resembles an American style bar. A rectangular bar full of taps of various styles of beer greet you, along with the TGIF badge madness cladded barstaff (WTF?). The bar has high chair seating for around a dozen drunks.Before the bar, there is tabled seating for around 20. Overall, they did quite a nice job in the interior. The only thing I don't really care for is the overabundance of fake darts games. I hate those things. That's just not darts, in my humble opinionated opinion.
There is a small kitchen to the right, just before the toilets.
Check out the cool mirror in the gents (I didn't check the ladies - mainly because there weren't any)!There is a small back room at the far end of the bar, on the left side. I was so excited to find out what this would hold. A pool table? A VIP room?
No, fake darts. Three of the flippin machines. Why?
I hate those bloody things. What a shame. Just a perfect place for a pool table.
Back in the bar, near the door to the room of fake darts, you can see the coolers containing the bottled beers.
I read that they hope to stock a LOT more bottled beer soon. At the moment, their selection is still quite decent. Just watch out for the two headed woman. She'll get ya.The second time I was here, I met this guy:Great guy and the brewer of Yokohama beer! He knew a lot about beer and I wasn't suprised when he immediately ordered a pint of Urquell, as soon as he sat down. He agrees that it is a lovely pint. It was really great, chatting to this guy, using my broken Japanese and his knowledge of English and our shared passion for all things sudsy
(I can also say that Yokohama's upcoming new beers should be very, very interesting - keep an eye out for them!).

I had another urquell, then followed it up with a favourite of mine from back home, Marston's Pedigree. Cask aged ale. Just 4.5% alcohol but nice and malty, mellow tasting. Just give her 10 minutes to rise above the insanely freezing serving temperature first.
Mmm...

If, like me, you'd prefer your beer not chilled to the point of freezing in the frozen glass, then ask teh barstafff not to use a chilled glass or not to dip your urquell mug into iced water, to make the already overchilled beer even colder. I think this is perhaps Japanese style (the manager told me it was stiill Yokohama style to drink ice cold beer) and it does indeed suit the Japanese lagers, but not for British ales or fine lagers.
I really believe the beer not only smells but tastes different, as the temperature changes. Perhaps the Budweiser or Miller would be better iced (or preferably switched for a glass of urquell or pedigree).

Something else that confuses me is how everything is almost the same price. A pint of Pedigree is 1000yen, as is a Guinness, as is the Budweiser and Miller! I hope I don't come across as a snob ( as opposed to come across a snob - unless I simultaneously sneeze and orgasm at the same time) but they are a whole different class of booze and the Budweiser has got to be the least value pint.
I just can't justify 'wasting' 1000yen on Bud if I can have a comparably superior pint for the same price. Whatever the drink, 1,000yen isn't chicken feed, anyway.

The beers are good, but too cold. I had a few beers in the time I was there:(the entrance is behind me, on the left)

Pilsner Urquell: Lovely, dry and malty Bohemian pilsner. One of the beers. Served very dry tasting and a little undercarbonated, perhaps. Seemd to go flat fast. If you like your beer at a normal temperature, ask the barstaff not to dip your glass into the iced water. It's up to you.Tasted ok but not perfect. Still, very good. Good enough for a second. But not cheap. 1200yen a pint. However, I doubt if you will find this anywhere else in Japan right now. I only had it once at the Belgian bar in Shibuya and that was only from one barrel. If you like this beer, drinki it now, while it's stil there.
7.5/10.

Marston's Pedigree:Very nice. But again, too bloody cold! Gets better as it warms. Poured perfectly with a nice head. Not a perfect taste, but I've had this a 4 other places in Japan and all with the exception of Cheers (when they still had it on tap!) did a terrible job of serving it. This place is ok.
Nice, malty, smooth and so easy to drink. Brings back memories.
7/10.


Enough talk about world beers. How about local ones?
More to the point, Yokohama beers. Seeing as this is a yokohama beer venture, it would be good to try their nice brews.
Also, the Yokohama beer offers better value at 900yen for a pint.
I highly recommend their weissen and also this fruity little baby.

Tsunashima peach ale:Ooh! Lovely! Made with peaches from Tsunashima (the next station to mine).
You can really taste them, too. In a good way.
Very nice and fruity peach ale.
One for the ladies, and the fruity guys.
6.5/10
I had another peach ale in Popeye's bar a few days later and I was dissapointed, as it lacked oomph, compared to this wondrous cacophony of flavor.

Shonan beer Russian Imperial Stout:Another nice beer. Stronger and darker (duh!). In the 18th Century, the British brewed this style of beer, under request of the Russian Imperial court. Chocolate malts, hops, dark dark roasting and 7% alcohol give this baby something else. Not bad. another Russian Imperial Stout you may see in shops here is the Rasputin (you can find it at Sugaya beer shop, near-ish to Kajigaya Station), by the American NorthCoast Brewing company. This beer was nice but not so easy to drink.
6/10.

Yokohama beer's Toddy:
I think this was an experimental beer, brewed by the Yokohama beer guys. All I can say is I feel it was a nice change. This is a spiced Christmas ale. And for me at least, it really did taste of Christmas! Very nice. The spices reminded me of the Christmas puddings we'd gorge ourselves on after Christmas dinner. The flavors, the spices, the nuts in my mouth...oh, so many repressed memories.
Very nice and brought on memory lane with every sip.
7/10

Franziskaner Hefeweissen:This is a very good weissbeer. From Munich, that nirvana of weissbiers. I love wheat beers and I kow this beer very well. However, something was off with this one. Maybe it was the first one (there are still not many customers in this place - it's still very new) from teh tap or the gas was wrong but it defintely tasted a little od. Not enough to warrant a complaint, but something wasn't right. Still, it was nice. Normally I would give a 7.5 for this beauty but this one merited a lower score, as it tasted off, for unkown reasons.
5.5/10

Bass Pale Ale:Just to complete the nostalgia, I decided to have a Bass, to compare with the Pedigree. No comparison. This Bass too, was a little off. Tasted strange. But not so bad.
6/10.
I have no idea why all the beers I treid that I knew from experience actually didn't quite taste how I imagined them to. The Urquell too. Still, only the Franziskaner and Bass were off by an easily perceptable margin. The other beers tasted ok. Also, they were poured very well and with the utmost care. Service is very important in this country and I usually have zero complaints, regards to quality in that regard.

When they get their al night liscence, this place should be an interesting place to while away the wee hours wiht a few freinds or jsut by your lonesome.
Although keep in mind the sneaky small print on the menu. There is a 500yen cover charge, per person, after midnight!Grrrr!!!!

Overall impression:
BLENDMEISTER 7.5/10
Amazing variety, so should have something for everyone. Hopefully it will get a bit busier as more people become aware of it and hope-upon-hopefully they will decide to have a happy hour(s)!!!